3d Printing Crew: Tugboats up in this biatch



Gol Meember
OT Supporter
Dec 1, 2003
36 is a lot for any one person, especially if you’re not printing dense squares
I mean... I'm not doing a production line but whenever I come up with something cool I tend to make one for everyone. Example....



OT Supporter
Jun 30, 2008
shitpost city
I mean... I'm not doing a production line but whenever I come up with something cool I tend to make one for everyone. Example....

I guess I meant something like: if you have a e3d v6 hot end printing at like peak flow ~15mm/s it takes roughly 15 hours to go through a spool. 36 spools is like 540 hours. But a mk3s at relatively stock speeds/accelerations isn't sustaining 15mm/s very often, not to mention all of the moves and shit during a print. Probably somewhat fair to say that's 1000+ hours of printing in filament.

don't sell yourself short, you printed a fuckin' lot for one dude just having fun
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OT Supporter
Jan 27, 2002
San Diego
I don't even want to think about how much filament I've purchased in the last year.

Right now, I'm struggling to figure out optics and focus to see if I can pull off the spotlight idea. Worst case they'll be nightlights... or I'll have to hire an engineer to figure that stuff out


Low self of steam.
OT Supporter
Aug 6, 2007
United States
Filament is an addiction. I've definitely bought way more than I've actually used. Sometimes I see a new color or whatever and get excited and have to order it.

Some of my spools are just kind of collecting dust. I thought I would use transparent PLA more often. Same with TPU and PETG.


Abraham $LINK’in
OT Supporter
Sep 30, 2008
Highly. ;)

Does that mean you wiped out all that filament or you were stocking up your selections?
They’re all about half used, but I’ve been through 2 spools of black PLA and a spool of orange PETG;

right now I’m pretty much exclusively printing those PCB cases in every color to sell. There are some colors that haven’t sold at all, so I’m kinda just figuring out which ones sell and printing those colors or variants of those colors (silk, metallic, translucent, etc.)


Russian Warship, Go Fuck Yourself
Aug 3, 2001
Hi OT 3D Printing Crew...

Your friendly 3D Printing noob here. Hoping I might be able to get some advice from y'all when it comes to printing CF-infused PETG. I've been rocking it with the PLA - my prints look good but for RC-car stuff that material is just too brittle to last. I decided to pick up some carbon-fiber infused (20%) PETG from Amazon (IEMAI brand) and a set of stainless and hardened steel nozzles on the recommendation of the manufacturer. Last night I tried to print a GoPro mount but it didn't go too well. Here are the steps I've taken:

-Replaced the .4mm brass nozzle with a .6mm stainless nozzle. Is this too big? The manufacturer gives conflicting info here, one area in the instructions says that I should be using at least a .6mm nozzle while another area says .4mm is okay
-I grabbed my original STL file and updated it in CURA based on generic PETG settings. These settings may actually be too high for my materials because when I was reading the reviews on the Amazon page, a lot of people were saying that the ideal temp was closer to PLA temps (200 degrees). I've played with both the PETG settings (higher temps all around) and the PLA settings with no success in either.
-I recalibrated my bed and Z-axis two times thinking that might be the issue. For some reason my Z-axis varied greatly between the two calibrations - first time it was less than 10mm from the plate which is a lot closer than I'm used to. Second time it was about 20mm. First calibration resulted in the prints coming out super stringy and the first layer wouldn't stick to well. Second calibration and the first layer didn't stick at all and I ended up with just a glob at the end of the extruder.
-Am I really supposed to use a glue-stick to help with surface adhesion when using PETG? I didn't and am wondering if might be causing an issue...
-Do the heat/fan/speed settings on the printer have any effect on the print? I thought that the GCODE file that you get after slicing provides these details for the printer/print. Curious because I noticed that under the temperature setting on the printer there is PLA (200 degrees) and ABS (240 degrees) and was wondering if I should be updating those too?

I'm going to start over with this over the weekend and continue troubleshooting but if anyone here has any tips or experience with this material, please share.

Printer is an Elegoo Neptune 3 (Ender 3 clone).

Thank you!


Gol Meember
OT Supporter
Dec 1, 2003
What's everyone's go to brand for PLA filament? Is amazon basics any good?
Here's what I use.
PLA: Hatchbox, Overture, Amazon Basics in that order.
PETG: Overture (really like it), Polymaker (which I think is same company as Overture), Sainsmart (Good stuff and goofy colors)
TPU: Sainsmart, Overture (TPU colors match their PETG), Hatchbox (flexy as Sainsmart and really good red), Priline (Less flexy, more durable)
Nylon: Overture (Easiest to print), Taulman3D Alloy 910 (BITCH to print but good stuff)

There are other random brands when I'm chasing specific properties like weird colors or wood infused.

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