3d Printing Crew: Tugboats up in this biatch

Cicada

Abraham $LINK’in
OT Supporter
Sep 30, 2008
127,342
SoCal
What's everyone's go to brand for PLA filament? Is amazon basics any good?
From what i've tried so far...

Good - Just to print shit because I want to, and i don't want to spend a bunch on a spool, or i'm testing stuff
Inland -- because microcenter accessibility/impulse buy, and i'm there often, so i pick up a spool or two in a random color. it's cheap at $18-19 for PLA+ or ToughPLA, and It does well enough.
Tecbears (Amazon) — super cheap, but their colors aren't as vibrant or saturated as other brands. Their Black PLA works really well and again, even cheaper than even Amazon's own stuff.

Better - these are pretty much all the same, imo
Cookiecad -- interesting colors, prints really well. I like this brand the best of the bunch
Hatchbox -- on par with cookiecad; I also appreciate that they use pantone as a color reference for their filaments, so you at least have a better idea of what the color is
Overture — more or less the same as cookiecad/hatchbox, imo. Their PETG is pretty good.
Polymaker — seems like the exact same thing as Overture

Best:
Protopasta
-- really interesting colors, and most of their stuff prints flawlessly for me. The fiber ones take some tuning. Their HTPLA can be annealed/heat treated to be even more heat and impact resistant than ABS (I haven't tried this yet) -- it's about twice as expensive as other filaments, though. I buy a lot of samples and then just buy 500g spools for random prints in cool colors or as a differentiator on Etsy.

i have a few filament dryers so i just pop them in there and feed directly to the printer whenever i'm printing stuff. I haven't tried printing with TPU yet; Haven't printed with PC/ABS/Nylon or anything that requires an enclosure, because I don't have one :o
 
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Cicada

Abraham $LINK’in
OT Supporter
Sep 30, 2008
127,342
SoCal
Hi OT 3D Printing Crew...

Your friendly 3D Printing noob here. Hoping I might be able to get some advice from y'all when it comes to printing CF-infused PETG. I've been rocking it with the PLA - my prints look good but for RC-car stuff that material is just too brittle to last. I decided to pick up some carbon-fiber infused (20%) PETG from Amazon (IEMAI brand) and a set of stainless and hardened steel nozzles on the recommendation of the manufacturer. Last night I tried to print a GoPro mount but it didn't go too well. Here are the steps I've taken:

-Replaced the .4mm brass nozzle with a .6mm stainless nozzle. Is this too big? The manufacturer gives conflicting info here, one area in the instructions says that I should be using at least a .6mm nozzle while another area says .4mm is okay
-I grabbed my original STL file and updated it in CURA based on generic PETG settings. These settings may actually be too high for my materials because when I was reading the reviews on the Amazon page, a lot of people were saying that the ideal temp was closer to PLA temps (200 degrees). I've played with both the PETG settings (higher temps all around) and the PLA settings with no success in either.
-I recalibrated my bed and Z-axis two times thinking that might be the issue. For some reason my Z-axis varied greatly between the two calibrations - first time it was less than 10mm from the plate which is a lot closer than I'm used to. Second time it was about 20mm. First calibration resulted in the prints coming out super stringy and the first layer wouldn't stick to well. Second calibration and the first layer didn't stick at all and I ended up with just a glob at the end of the extruder.
-Am I really supposed to use a glue-stick to help with surface adhesion when using PETG? I didn't and am wondering if might be causing an issue...
-Do the heat/fan/speed settings on the printer have any effect on the print? I thought that the GCODE file that you get after slicing provides these details for the printer/print. Curious because I noticed that under the temperature setting on the printer there is PLA (200 degrees) and ABS (240 degrees) and was wondering if I should be updating those too?

I'm going to start over with this over the weekend and continue troubleshooting but if anyone here has any tips or experience with this material, please share.

Printer is an Elegoo Neptune 3 (Ender 3 clone).

Thank you!
.6mm should be fine (?) i'm assuming they recommend it because of the fibers in the filament, and a .4 may be too restrictive :dunno:

rest is probably tuning, i'm guessing. I haven't played enough with all of the settings in cura to even know what all of them do; only looked into the ones that i needed for what I was doing :rofl: — Temps: 200 seems way too low -- it might melt and extrude, but it probably won't stick to itself; I print PETG at 235-240ish and 70-75 bed

depending on the bed, Glue stick might make it stick too well.

fan speed should be way lower with PETG. on my S1 Pro with upgraded cooling i run like 25-50% fan speed with PETG, sometimes lower
 
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wabash9000

Well-Known Member
Dec 27, 2006
15,202
Olathe, KS
Kinda the opposite of a 3d printer, but I'm debating buying a small CNC router like this
I've seen them able to mill aluminum if you go slow and have a shallow depth of cut. I've been trying to 3d print molds for a while and I just can't get them to work. It would be nice to mill some aluminum molds for forged carbon fiber or injection molded plastic. It would also be nice to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets.
 

Boots

I'm wearing a disguise
Jul 2, 2001
14,402
🇨🇦
Just went through my Amazon purchases for 2022 for taxes. 36 rolls of filament. :eek3: That probably isn't a lot compared to some of you but I don't do high volume anything. I had no idea I had bought that much.

I took 18 empty spools to be recycled last week. I probably have another 10 or so active... So that's 28 spools I've run through my printer since I got it in 2019. I don't do a lot of large prints though. Most of my prints are less than 5h. I waste a lot unfortunately doing prototypes.
 
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TwiggSS

eh?
Jul 8, 2001
10,335
🐔
nice :coold: -- i went back and forth over the last week before waking up this morning and going "fuck it"
This was me 2 weeks ago. :rofl: It showed up on Thurs. :cool:


I just kept looking at my cart multiple times a day (was actually kinda hoping a few more spare parts would come in stock but more were going OOS)
 
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lowfat

The Dragon Reborn
OT Supporter
Oct 27, 2003
67,657
Grande Prairie, AB, Can
I took 18 empty spools to be recycled last week. I probably have another 10 or so active... So that's 28 spools I've run through my printer since I got it in 2019. I don't do a lot of large prints though. Most of my prints are less than 5h. I waste a lot unfortunately doing prototypes.
Where did you take them where they can be recycled?
 

OneTwo

me>you
OT Supporter
Aug 22, 2004
30,422
Kinda the opposite of a 3d printer, but I'm debating buying a small CNC router like this
I've seen them able to mill aluminum if you go slow and have a shallow depth of cut. I've been trying to 3d print molds for a while and I just can't get them to work. It would be nice to mill some aluminum molds for forged carbon fiber or injection molded plastic. It would also be nice to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets.
I have a shapeoko, I cut aluminum about 5 years ago, the oil/shavings are still everywhere...
 

Cicada

Abraham $LINK’in
OT Supporter
Sep 30, 2008
127,342
SoCal
This was me 2 weeks ago. :rofl: It showed up on Thurs. :cool:


I just kept looking at my cart multiple times a day (was actually kinda hoping a few more spare parts would come in stock but more were going OOS)
So that was quick. Looks like the printer has shipped despite the site saying End of January :bowdown:

I ended up placing another order with 9 more hotends, build plates, thermistors and heating elements— basically any spares I could get my hands on, because who knows how shitty stock might be whenever I need to replace/fix it
 

CPTMULLET

OT Supporter
Jun 30, 2008
77,375
shitpost city
So that was quick. Looks like the printer has shipped despite the site saying End of January :bowdown:

I ended up placing another order with 9 more hotends, build plates, thermistors and heating elements— basically any spares I could get my hands on, because who knows how shitty stock might be whenever I need to replace/fix it
did you get a x1c w/ color thing or?
 
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Cicada

Abraham $LINK’in
OT Supporter
Sep 30, 2008
127,342
SoCal
did you get a x1c w/ color thing or?
Yeah the x1c combo with the AMS. Don’t even really plan to use it a lot because it seems like a lot of waste— probably just for things with text on it, or first-layer stuff like box tops, or printing support material
 
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Tenny

OT Supporter
Oct 4, 2005
16,665
Houston
Kinda the opposite of a 3d printer, but I'm debating buying a small CNC router like this
I've seen them able to mill aluminum if you go slow and have a shallow depth of cut. I've been trying to 3d print molds for a while and I just can't get them to work. It would be nice to mill some aluminum molds for forged carbon fiber or injection molded plastic. It would also be nice to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets.
Prepare for a huge mess and a very loud machine. I gave away my small CNC.

I would normally say get a laser instead, but since you want different heights you don't have too many choices. RIP GL
 

Tenny

OT Supporter
Oct 4, 2005
16,665
Houston
Oof ... Some how the printer is still functioning after "ripping" this off.

z8fOwJ7.png
 

ObeyTheNoodle

Russian Warship, Go Fuck Yourself
Aug 3, 2001
12,081
Seattle
.6mm should be fine (?) i'm assuming they recommend it because of the fibers in the filament, and a .4 may be too restrictive :dunno:

rest is probably tuning, i'm guessing. I haven't played enough with all of the settings in cura to even know what all of them do; only looked into the ones that i needed for what I was doing :rofl: — Temps: 200 seems way too low -- it might melt and extrude, but it probably won't stick to itself; I print PETG at 235-240ish and 70-75 bed

depending on the bed, Glue stick might make it stick too well.

fan speed should be way lower with PETG. on my S1 Pro with upgraded cooling i run like 25-50% fan speed with PETG, sometimes lower

Yep. Just took a bunch more tinkering and I was finally able to get it to print correctly. I think the biggest change I had to make was the refraction speed and distance.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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TheRider

Geeky
OT Supporter
Jan 27, 2002
7,121
San Diego
Finished printing Bordeaux the Octopus from Cults3d for my wife, somehow I think I'm going to get suckered into printing a bunch of these though. Was a long print - but doesn't require any supports. Nightlight design is complete as well now I'll get around to posting pictures of it later though.

UhT8aQ0l.jpg


LZdUoB0l.jpg


s8PXqBsl.jpg


QQtT2jxl.jpg
 

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