It was the first time I used that thingiverse customizer thing. Worked pretty good.this is one of the reasons I need my printer back up and running, shop vac adapters are so expensive![]()
It was the first time I used that thingiverse customizer thing. Worked pretty good.this is one of the reasons I need my printer back up and running, shop vac adapters are so expensive![]()
From what i've tried so far...What's everyone's go to brand for PLA filament? Is amazon basics any good?
.6mm should be fine (?) i'm assuming they recommend it because of the fibers in the filament, and a .4 may be too restrictiveHi OT 3D Printing Crew...
Your friendly 3D Printing noob here. Hoping I might be able to get some advice from y'all when it comes to printing CF-infused PETG. I've been rocking it with the PLA - my prints look good but for RC-car stuff that material is just too brittle to last. I decided to pick up some carbon-fiber infused (20%) PETG from Amazon (IEMAI brand) and a set of stainless and hardened steel nozzles on the recommendation of the manufacturer. Last night I tried to print a GoPro mount but it didn't go too well. Here are the steps I've taken:
-Replaced the .4mm brass nozzle with a .6mm stainless nozzle. Is this too big? The manufacturer gives conflicting info here, one area in the instructions says that I should be using at least a .6mm nozzle while another area says .4mm is okay
-I grabbed my original STL file and updated it in CURA based on generic PETG settings. These settings may actually be too high for my materials because when I was reading the reviews on the Amazon page, a lot of people were saying that the ideal temp was closer to PLA temps (200 degrees). I've played with both the PETG settings (higher temps all around) and the PLA settings with no success in either.
-I recalibrated my bed and Z-axis two times thinking that might be the issue. For some reason my Z-axis varied greatly between the two calibrations - first time it was less than 10mm from the plate which is a lot closer than I'm used to. Second time it was about 20mm. First calibration resulted in the prints coming out super stringy and the first layer wouldn't stick to well. Second calibration and the first layer didn't stick at all and I ended up with just a glob at the end of the extruder.
-Am I really supposed to use a glue-stick to help with surface adhesion when using PETG? I didn't and am wondering if might be causing an issue...
-Do the heat/fan/speed settings on the printer have any effect on the print? I thought that the GCODE file that you get after slicing provides these details for the printer/print. Curious because I noticed that under the temperature setting on the printer there is PLA (200 degrees) and ABS (240 degrees) and was wondering if I should be updating those too?
I'm going to start over with this over the weekend and continue troubleshooting but if anyone here has any tips or experience with this material, please share.
Printer is an Elegoo Neptune 3 (Ender 3 clone).
Thank you!
Just went through my Amazon purchases for 2022 for taxes. 36 rolls of filament.That probably isn't a lot compared to some of you but I don't do high volume anything. I had no idea I had bought that much.
This was me 2 weeks ago.nice-- i went back and forth over the last week before waking up this morning and going "fuck it"
Where did you take them where they can be recycled?I took 18 empty spools to be recycled last week. I probably have another 10 or so active... So that's 28 spools I've run through my printer since I got it in 2019. I don't do a lot of large prints though. Most of my prints are less than 5h. I waste a lot unfortunately doing prototypes.
Where did you take them where they can be recycled?
I have a shapeoko, I cut aluminum about 5 years ago, the oil/shavings are still everywhere...Kinda the opposite of a 3d printer, but I'm debating buying a small CNC router like this
I've seen them able to mill aluminum if you go slow and have a shallow depth of cut. I've been trying to 3d print molds for a while and I just can't get them to work. It would be nice to mill some aluminum molds for forged carbon fiber or injection molded plastic. It would also be nice to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets.
So that was quick. Looks like the printer has shipped despite the site saying End of JanuaryThis was me 2 weeks ago.It showed up on Thurs.
I just kept looking at my cart multiple times a day (was actually kinda hoping a few more spare parts would come in stock but more were going OOS)
did you get a x1c w/ color thing or?So that was quick. Looks like the printer has shipped despite the site saying End of January
I ended up placing another order with 9 more hotends, build plates, thermistors and heating elements— basically any spares I could get my hands on, because who knows how shitty stock might be whenever I need to replace/fix it
Yeah the x1c combo with the AMS. Don’t even really plan to use it a lot because it seems like a lot of waste— probably just for things with text on it, or first-layer stuff like box tops, or printing support materialdid you get a x1c w/ color thing or?
Prepare for a huge mess and a very loud machine. I gave away my small CNC.Kinda the opposite of a 3d printer, but I'm debating buying a small CNC router like this
I've seen them able to mill aluminum if you go slow and have a shallow depth of cut. I've been trying to 3d print molds for a while and I just can't get them to work. It would be nice to mill some aluminum molds for forged carbon fiber or injection molded plastic. It would also be nice to cut fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets.
this is one of the reasons I need my printer back up and running, shop vac adapters are so expensive![]()
Your spools don't have an identity code on them?Where did you take them where they can be recycled?
Nope. And even if it were besides PET or HDPE most plastics aren't ever recycled. And the spools aren't made from either AFAICT.Your spools don't have an identity code on them?
.6mm should be fine (?) i'm assuming they recommend it because of the fibers in the filament, and a .4 may be too restrictive
rest is probably tuning, i'm guessing. I haven't played enough with all of the settings in cura to even know what all of them do; only looked into the ones that i needed for what I was doing— Temps: 200 seems way too low -- it might melt and extrude, but it probably won't stick to itself; I print PETG at 235-240ish and 70-75 bed
depending on the bed, Glue stick might make it stick too well.
fan speed should be way lower with PETG. on my S1 Pro with upgraded cooling i run like 25-50% fan speed with PETG, sometimes lower
I've looked over a few recently and none had any recycle identifiers on them.Your spools don't have an identity code on them?
Tell the supplier to use different materials for the spools or you won't purchaseNope. And even if it were besides PET or HDPE most plastics aren't ever recycled. And the spools aren't made from either AFAICT.
Which is why I only buy ESUN refills.Tell the supplier to use different materials for the spools or you won't purchase
It's all on the end consumer