3d Printing Crew: Tugboats up in this biatch

[Tenny]

I'm curious how many of my current MIP hex drivers from my RC toolbox will be useful for the build.

One of my RC bags turned into a indoor hex drive 3D printer tool tray.

 

[Ramathorn15]

50% about 48 hours in

 

[TheRider]

50% about 48 hours in

Are you having some cooling issues? Looking at the smooth part of the front right tentacle, seems like it's getting lines or banding?

 

[CPTMULLET]

I'm curious how many of my current MIP hex drivers from my RC toolbox will be useful for the build.

Most used is 2.5, then 3mm. Get some ballheads of some sort before you start:

My personal favorite:

Reddits favorite:

 

[CPTMULLET]

I have the kobalt and the bottom army green snap on one.
The kobalt one is trash. It just slips all the time, the feature is cool (where you grab the ring and it goes faster) but most of the time it messes up. It's in the "boats toolbag" where I don't want to have to use it, but it'll work if necessary.
The army green snap on is / has been my goto for 20 years now. I just had to pull it apart this past fall when I ordered the LTT and cleaned up the ratcheting on it. It's a shit ton better but not good by any means. It'll stay in the toolbox.
The Megapro is shit tons better than both, but really interested to see how it compares to the LTT.

Yeah the newer snap on with the wacky handle has a decidedly nicer ratchet. The army green one was a promotion gift to myself because I'd wanted one for so long

 

[MastaCow]

Most used is 2.5, then 3mm. Get some ballheads of some sort before you start:

My personal favorite:

Reddits favorite:

Thanks. Got both in the cart.

 

[Ramathorn15]

Are you having some cooling issues? Looking at the smooth part of the front right tentacle, seems like it's getting lines or banding?

Yeah, I'm not sure. Honestly didn't notice it until I took the photo and it over sharpened the image. Barely noticeable on the print itself. My z might be too loose or out of alignment.

 

[TheRider]

So after getting the Anker M5 setup at the office for a day or two both my wife and I went down with Covid, so I didn't return to the office for 2 weeks. I'm back now and figured I'd start it on a relatively aggressive project that it just flew through. A 4x4 Topo panel map of San Diego downtown. These aren't hard to generate yourself, but there are people that specialize in and they are certainly cheap enough so I just bought one pre-done.

I've got to say I'm relatively impressed with this Anker printer as a starter unit for someone. Next time I gift someone a 3d printer it might well be one of these depending on how much of a pain in the ass it is when I need to fix something on it since the learning curve to getting started is literally next to nothing and while it isn't my Prusa's which I love, I'm still impressed with it. Each panel is basically 1-4ish hours of printing depending on height/complexity. I did slice in Prusa and then fed into the ankerslicer since that piece of a software is a heaping pile of shit that no one should use other than to push already sliced jobs to the printer.

 

[Nikuk]

so -- is this a good idea?

it sits on a ledge that's part of the home, so i don't really want it to resonate throughout the house

rubber, paver, foam, paver, printer:
View attachment 296038


cuz it wobbles like crazy if you go balls out -- around 2:30-3:00 when it starts printing -- under a normal print/normal print speed though, it seems stable.



I have the other printers setup like this on a coffee table in the loft, and it helped with noise, but they're not as violent as this one

View attachment 296114

I'm curious how that turns out for you.
In a past life I was a machinist on big manual and CNC machines, we went in the other direction: make the machine, fixturing, and workpieces as rigid as possible to avoid ringing / chatter / etc.
But that was high speed material removal, I having a hard time correlating the ideals with additive manufacturing.

 

[CPTMULLET]

I'm curious how that turns out for you.
In a past life I was a machinist on big manual and CNC machines, we went in the other direction: make the machine, fixturing, and workpieces as rigid as possible to avoid ringing / chatter / etc.
But that was high speed material removal, I having a hard time correlating the ideals with additive manufacturing.

The same is true in additive, you're just looking at budget ways to mitigate the problem.

Ender3 is the home equivalent of https://www.grizzly.com/products/shop-fox-4-x-8-micro-milling-machine/m1036

 

[CPTMULLET]

CNC kitchen did a whole video on pavers + foam a couple years ago:

 

[Nikuk]

The same is true in additive, you're just looking at budget ways to mitigate the problem.

Ender3 is the home equivalent of https://www.grizzly.com/products/shop-fox-4-x-8-micro-milling-machine/m1036

Its funny, because one of the first things I did with my ender 5, and with the mk3s, was fasten the frame to the 20# enclosure, and then fasten the enclosure to a workbench

 

[Nikuk]

CNC kitchen did a whole video on pavers + foam a couple years ago:

Neat, I love data points, thanks

 

[CPTMULLET]

Its funny, because one of the first things I did with my ender 5, and with the mk3s, was fasten the frame to the 20# enclosure, and then fasten the enclosure to a workbench

my v2.4 sits on a ~30lb chunk of counter top

 

[Cicada]

damn! The racket and the shaking

I'd put rubber beneath it and two cinder blocks on top

there's rubber under the first paver before the actual surface, but i don't know if that'd do enough by itself to reduce noise without the foam to decouple it

it doesn't do that at all really, unless i'm trying to print their balls-to-the-wall benchy, which came out pretty good in spite of it shaking like that. Some small artifacts in some places, but it just may be due to the fuckin shaking

also, first impressions notes i've taken:

• it's a bit more plastic-ey than I thought it'd be -- some of the fascia is plastic, the base is plastic, and lots of other parts; doesnt take anything away from it though — still a solid unit, and doesnt really feel "cheap".

• The touch screen is responsive enough but there does feel like there's a bit of lag. Could also be a bit bigger, but the UI is designed well so it;'s not a nightmare to use.

• The automatic calibration (flow calibration, first layer scan, etc) before every print is nice and has so far led to great results, but it takes a lot of time; this adds about 5-7 mins before every print if those options are on -- doesn't seem to be necessary on every print, especially if you're just churning out parts.

• Cool plate is ass; it actually sticks really well, but you do need to use glue stick.
  • I accidentally set it to a normal 60c hotbed temp and i fucked up the sticker because the print stuck too well and i had to scrape the shit out of it.
  • glad I got the PEI plates (smooth and textured) -- also have a PEX plate on the way. Newer ones should just ship with the "High Temp" PEI plate like the P1P does.
• The chamber light is pretty crap; a lot have added LED strips between the AMS and top lid for more light inside.

• it's fast, but not thatmuch faster than the v400 for my usual prints
  • that actually may be a lie -- the S1 Pro will print a case in 55 mins, v400 @ 40-45 mins, X1c will do it in ≈30 mins and a better end result

• The delivered profiles seem pretty damn good accuracy-wise; i usually have to dial in a tiny bit of horizontal comp for holes and contours in Cura on my other printers for those cases; i still ahve to dial some in here, but much less.
  • Bambu Studio seems cool; multicolor seems to be easy to do/setup, and the layout is much more usable than Cura (which i'm used to, but not really "used to")
  • The fucking phone app is called “Bambu Handy” lmao
  • Cloud printing and remote viewing natively in the slicer is nice.
    • Could be a security concern (?) — i have to VPN in to my home network to remotely monitor/control my other printers.

• I haven't played with it yet, but AMS is cool even for single-color prints — just having 4 spools loaded up and ready to go without having to switch anything out or having to unload/load the extruder is nice.
  • Apparently You can print a Y-adapter and have both the AMS and external spool feed in depending on the settings; so technically you can have 5 ready to go (but can't use both AMS and a "regular" spool at the same time, i think?)

When i get more hours in with it, i'll try to add more

 

[Cicada]

CNC kitchen did a whole video on pavers + foam a couple years ago:

thats where I got the idea

Simple 3D printer noise reduction with a concrete paver — CNC Kitchen

I print a lot and this also means that many of my prints run overnight. Unfortunately, our bedroom is right next to my office in which my main printers usually are. When I got into 3D printing it was a real pain because the printing noises just kept me from some good night sleep so I usually only ra

www.cnckitchen.com

but is there like diminishing returns? i dont think the printer should be wobbling around like that since it probably negatively affects performance

 

[Cicada]

So after getting the Anker M5 setup at the office for a day or two both my wife and I went down with Covid, so I didn't return to the office for 2 weeks. I'm back now and figured I'd start it on a relatively aggressive project that it just flew through. A 4x4 Topo panel map of San Diego downtown. These aren't hard to generate yourself, but there are people that specialize in and they are certainly cheap enough so I just bought one pre-done.

I've got to say I'm relatively impressed with this Anker printer as a starter unit for someone. Next time I gift someone a 3d printer it might well be one of these depending on how much of a pain in the ass it is when I need to fix something on it since the learning curve to getting started is literally next to nothing and while it isn't my Prusa's which I love, I'm still impressed with it. Each panel is basically 1-4ish hours of printing depending on height/complexity. I did slice in Prusa and then fed into the ankerslicer since that piece of a software is a heaping pile of shit that no one should use other than to push already sliced jobs to the printer.

that's awesome

I've been wanting to laser cut/engrave something like this on my laser which is easy enough to do with illustrator and google maps or ArcGIS, but a 3D version would be cool too; what sort of software would you use to generate the model?

 

[CPTMULLET]

• it's fast, but not thatmuch faster than the v400 for my usual prints
  • that actually may be a lie -- the S1 Pro will print a case in 55 mins, v400 @ 40-45 mins, X1c will do it in ≈30 mins and a better end result

A lot of printing speed is acceleration, it's one thing to advertise like 400mm/s print speeds, but the reality is most printers run at super tame accelerations (which allows for pretty reasonable quality even on a poorly tuned machine). If I had to venture a guess the Bambu can actually put up some good numbers

 

[Cicada]

my v2.4 sits on a ~30lb chunk of counter top

i looked at local places to see if i could get like 18 x 18" slabs of granite or marble or something, but it's a little cost prohibitive, so i went with $10 "heavy enough" porcelain pavers and doubled up

 

[CPTMULLET]

Google agreed:
Bambu Lab claims that both the X1 and X1-Carbon can reach 20,000mm/s/s acceleration, 500mm/s velocity, and 32 cubic mm/s flow.

 

[CPTMULLET]

Damn the FLSun v400 has pretty respectable accels tho
400mm/s is the default maximum printing speed, and the acceleration is also the default maximum 8000mm/s.

 

[Cicada]

A lot of printing speed is acceleration, it's one thing to advertise like 400mm/s print speeds, but the reality is most printers run at super tame accelerations (which allows for pretty reasonable quality even on a poorly tuned machine). If I had to venture a guess the Bambu can actually put up some good numbers

v400 is setup for 8000 mm/s out of the box, i think. I havent spent much time messing with it, but i think some are getting 10-12k acceleration; the S1 pro running klipper will "do" 5000, but realistically it's maybe half that. X1 claims up to 20k

 

[Cicada]

Damn the FLSun v400 has pretty respectable accels tho
400mm/s is the default maximum printing speed, and the acceleration is also the default maximum 8000mm/s.

it's actually pretty quick. no complaints with it so far, and it's running klipper out of the box. the default nozzle is like a retarded version of a CHT with only 2 holes, but it's been working well and can keep up at speed.

my only issue has been the pad -- it loses wifi connection so often (requires a complete restart) that it makes me want to throw it out the window

 

[CPTMULLET]

my voron was at 5k max accel for tuning and I never really bothered to crank it up
I almost finished rebuilding my gantry last night, so many of the idler bearings were crunchy after ~650 hours

 

[lowfat]

my voron was at 5k max accel for tuning and I never really bothered to crank it up
I almost finished rebuilding my gantry last night, so many of the idler bearings were crunchy after ~650 hours

What kind of bearings were they? I bought good shit for idlers last year. Genuine Gates idlers and pulleys for one machine. Then Mellow3D ones for the other.