Yeah the newer snap on with the wacky handle has a decidedly nicer ratchet. The army green one was a promotion gift to myself because I'd wanted one for so longI have the kobalt and the bottom army green snap on one.
The kobalt one is trash. It just slips all the time, the feature is cool (where you grab the ring and it goes faster) but most of the time it messes up. It's in the "boats toolbag" where I don't want to have to use it, but it'll work if necessary.
The army green snap on is / has been my goto for 20 years now. I just had to pull it apart this past fall when I ordered the LTT and cleaned up the ratcheting on it. It's a shit ton better but not good by any means. It'll stay in the toolbox.
The Megapro is shit tons better than both, but really interested to see how it compares to the LTT.
Are you having some cooling issues? Looking at the smooth part of the front right tentacle, seems like it's getting lines or banding?
so -- is this a good idea?
it sits on a ledge that's part of the home, so i don't really want it to resonate throughout the house
rubber, paver, foam, paver, printer:
View attachment 296038
cuz it wobbles like crazy if you go balls out -- around 2:30-3:00 when it starts printing -- under a normal print/normal print speed though, it seems stable.
I have the other printers setup like this on a coffee table in the loft, and it helped with noise, but they're not as violent as this one
View attachment 296114
The same is true in additive, you're just looking at budget ways to mitigate the problem.I'm curious how that turns out for you.
In a past life I was a machinist on big manual and CNC machines, we went in the other direction: make the machine, fixturing, and workpieces as rigid as possible to avoid ringing / chatter / etc.
But that was high speed material removal, I having a hard time correlating the ideals with additive manufacturing.
Its funny, because one of the first things I did with my ender 5, and with the mk3s, was fasten the frame to the 20# enclosure, and then fasten the enclosure to a workbenchThe same is true in additive, you're just looking at budget ways to mitigate the problem.
Ender3 is the home equivalent of https://www.grizzly.com/products/shop-fox-4-x-8-micro-milling-machine/m1036
there's rubber under the first paver before the actual surface, but i don't know if that'd do enough by itself to reduce noise without the foam to decouple itdamn! The racket and the shaking
I'd put rubber beneath it and two cinder blocks on top
CNC kitchen did a whole video on pavers + foam a couple years ago:
that's awesomeSo after getting the Anker M5 setup at the office for a day or two both my wife and I went down with Covid, so I didn't return to the office for 2 weeks. I'm back now and figured I'd start it on a relatively aggressive project that it just flew through. A 4x4 Topo panel map of San Diego downtown. These aren't hard to generate yourself, but there are people that specialize in and they are certainly cheap enough so I just bought one pre-done.
I've got to say I'm relatively impressed with this Anker printer as a starter unit for someone. Next time I gift someone a 3d printer it might well be one of these depending on how much of a pain in the ass it is when I need to fix something on it since the learning curve to getting started is literally next to nothing and while it isn't my Prusa's which I love, I'm still impressed with it. Each panel is basically 1-4ish hours of printing depending on height/complexity. I did slice in Prusa and then fed into the ankerslicer since that piece of a software is a heaping pile of shit that no one should use other than to push already sliced jobs to the printer.
A lot of printing speed is acceleration, it's one thing to advertise like 400mm/s print speeds, but the reality is most printers run at super tame accelerations (which allows for pretty reasonable quality even on a poorly tuned machine). If I had to venture a guess the Bambu can actually put up some good numbers
- it's fast, but not thatmuch faster than the v400 for my usual prints
- that actually may be a lie -- the S1 Pro will print a case in 55 mins, v400 @ 40-45 mins, X1c will do it in ≈30 mins and a better end result
v400 is setup for 8000 mm/s out of the box, i think. I havent spent much time messing with it, but i think some are getting 10-12k acceleration; the S1 pro running klipper will "do" 5000, but realistically it's maybe half that. X1 claims up to 20kA lot of printing speed is acceleration, it's one thing to advertise like 400mm/s print speeds, but the reality is most printers run at super tame accelerations (which allows for pretty reasonable quality even on a poorly tuned machine). If I had to venture a guess the Bambu can actually put up some good numbers
it's actually pretty quick. no complaints with it so far, and it's running klipper out of the box. the default nozzle is like a retarded version of a CHT with only 2 holes, but it's been working well and can keep up at speed.Damn the FLSun v400 has pretty respectable accels tho
400mm/s is the default maximum printing speed, and the acceleration is also the default maximum 8000mm/s.
What kind of bearings were they? I bought good shit for idlers last year. Genuine Gates idlers and pulleys for one machine. Then Mellow3D ones for the other.my voron was at 5k max accel for tuning and I never really bothered to crank it up
I almost finished rebuilding my gantry last night, so many of the idler bearings were crunchy after ~650 hours