https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printable-City-Maps/ gives some data and there are a few websites that help with it do if you google for city to stl. But i know NOLA is one the same guy I use has already done https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/arc...-landmark-model-of-new-orleans-skyline-3d-artthat's awesome
I've been wanting to laser cut/engrave something like this on my laser which is easy enough to do with illustrator and google maps or ArcGIS, but a 3D version would be cool too; what sort of software would you use to generate the model?
View attachment 296238
3d Printing Crew: Tugboats up in this biatch
- Thread starter FritoBandito
- Start date
- CREW
I know this is a bit of a dumb question but what is the best way to go about switching filaments? I have been snipping at the extruder inlet and then starting a print and let if go until it starts showing the next filament color.
Is there a better way?
Is there a better way?
No eject filament option on the printer? If not I just yank it out when its warm'ish. Then just force new filament through when hotend is hot but motors are not engaged.I know this is a bit of a dumb question but what is the best way to go about switching filaments? I have been snipping at the extruder inlet and then starting a print and let if go until it starts showing the next filament color.
Is there a better way?
gotcha, I don't think I've seen anything about ejecting filament but I'll see what I can find. Appreciate it
Sweet, I found an instruction page from Creality and it explains how to do the filament ejection. I just needed the correct words to find it, so thank! 
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
the other thing to google would be Cold PullSweet, I found an instruction page from Creality and it explains how to do the filament ejection. I just needed the correct words to find it, so thank!
Is remote control/live video of printing even useful? I don't get why it would be helpful other than being able to cancel a print if something went wrong and you aren't at home.
I mean, it could be cool to be able to start a print without have to touch the printer but that would only work one at a time since there would be no way to get it off the build platter. I feel like I'm missing something...
I mean, it could be cool to be able to start a print without have to touch the printer but that would only work one at a time since there would be no way to get it off the build platter. I feel like I'm missing something...
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
Saves fumbling with thumb drives and SD cards. If your printer and desk are in different places it can add up, also allows you to do things like pre heat before you send a print, etc.
Necessary? No
Really nice? Yes
Also allows you to have metrics on failed prints, filament used, etc.
okay, so if i print in anything faster than "standard" (200mm/s, 10k accel), the printer wobbles way too much and can cause issues on the second layer when it cranks up the speed, but it can get one of my usual prints out with acceptable quality in ≈13 minutes 
took the foam off, set it just on the rubber and the pavers — still wobbly…a little less so, but it's actually quieter than it was with the foam in between them.
Guess I should try it without the rubber next
took the foam off, set it just on the rubber and the pavers — still wobbly…a little less so, but it's actually quieter than it was with the foam in between them.
Guess I should try it without the rubber next
That’s usually what I use it for. Or timeplases that I’ve honestly never watched because I don’t print any big models
I’ve also used remote access/monitoring if the printer is sitting idle and if I’m away from home, I can slice something up and start a print and monitor it from wherever.
I use the moonraker plugin in Cura (there’s also a “Mobileraker” app, below) to be able to send prints remotely when I’m at home, because the printers are on the other side of the room and I’m too lazy to load it on a USB stick or card and walk over there.
Managing the printer through the web interface is super useful, imo; you can adjust most of the settings like temps, fans, speed/accel, extrusion, microadjust z-offset, adjust/edit your gcode, start a print, etc. — I only ever have to touch the printer to load filament or pop the print off
there's rubber under the first paver before the actual surface, but i don't know if that'd do enough by itself to reduce noise without the foam to decouple it
it doesn't do that at all really, unless i'm trying to print their balls-to-the-wall benchy, which came out pretty good in spite of it shaking like that. Some small artifacts in some places, but it just may be due to the fuckin shaking
also, first impressions notes i've taken:
View attachment 296207
- it's a bit more plastic-ey than I thought it'd be -- some of the fascia is plastic, the base is plastic, and lots of other parts; doesnt take anything away from it though — still a solid unit, and doesnt really feel "cheap".
View attachment 296208
- The touch screen is responsive enough but there does feel like there's a bit of lag. Could also be a bit bigger, but the UI is designed well so it;'s not a nightmare to use.
- The automatic calibration (flow calibration, first layer scan, etc) before every print is nice and has so far led to great results, but it takes a lot of time; this adds about 5-7 mins before every print if those options are on -- doesn't seem to be necessary on every print, especially if you're just churning out parts.
- Cool plate is ass; it actually sticks really well, but you do need to use glue stick.
- I accidentally set it to a normal 60c hotbed temp and i fucked up the sticker because the print stuck too well and i had to scrape the shit out of it.
- glad I got the PEI plates (smooth and textured) -- also have a PEX plate on the way. Newer ones should just ship with the "High Temp" PEI plate like the P1P does.
- The chamber light is pretty crap; a lot have added LED strips between the AMS and top lid for more light inside.
- it's fast, but not thatmuch faster than the v400 for my usual prints
- that actually may be a lie -- the S1 Pro will print a case in 55 mins, v400 @ 40-45 mins, X1c will do it in ≈30 mins and a better end result
View attachment 296209
- The delivered profiles seem pretty damn good accuracy-wise; i usually have to dial in a tiny bit of horizontal comp for holes and contours in Cura on my other printers for those cases; i still ahve to dial some in here, but much less.
- Bambu Studio seems cool; multicolor seems to be easy to do/setup, and the layout is much more usable than Cura (which i'm used to, but not really "used to")
- The fucking phone app is called “Bambu Handy” lmao
- Cloud printing and remote viewing natively in the slicer is nice.
- Could be a security concern (?) — i have to VPN in to my home network to remotely monitor/control my other printers.
View attachment 296210
- I haven't played with it yet, but AMS is cool even for single-color prints — just having 4 spools loaded up and ready to go without having to switch anything out or having to unload/load the extruder is nice.
- Apparently You can print a Y-adapter and have both the AMS and external spool feed in depending on the settings; so technically you can have 5 ready to go (but can't use both AMS and a "regular" spool at the same time, i think?)
When i get more hours in with it, i'll try to add more
Good review so far! Thanks for the bamboo handy. Keep us in the loop on your thoughts
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
p1p, gotta catch em alljust sold all my old Amplifi stuff -- so...PS5, or a P1P?
Yet another basic question for you guys that I don't know the terms to be able to search for
I'm making my dad what is basically a cup on his desk for pens and junk.
What do I change to make the wall of the cup thicker? I printed one last night that got fucked up somehow, but I was able to tell that the wall is super thin. I have the standard .4mm nozzle so I'm not sure if that limits me somehow in that area.a
I'm making my dad what is basically a cup on his desk for pens and junk.
What do I change to make the wall of the cup thicker? I printed one last night that got fucked up somehow, but I was able to tell that the wall is super thin. I have the standard .4mm nozzle so I'm not sure if that limits me somehow in that area.
a
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
post the model you used and a picture of the cupYet another basic question for you guys that I don't know the terms to be able to search for
I'm making my dad what is basically a cup on his desk for pens and junk.
What do I change to make the wall of the cup thicker? I printed one last night that got fucked up somehow, but I was able to tell that the wall is super thin. I have the standard .4mm nozzle so I'm not sure if that limits me somehow in that area.
MastaCow
I love cup.
there's rubber under the first paver before the actual surface, but i don't know if that'd do enough by itself to reduce noise without the foam to decouple it
it doesn't do that at all really, unless i'm trying to print their balls-to-the-wall benchy, which came out pretty good in spite of it shaking like that. Some small artifacts in some places, but it just may be due to the fuckin shaking
also, first impressions notes i've taken:
View attachment 296207
- it's a bit more plastic-ey than I thought it'd be -- some of the fascia is plastic, the base is plastic, and lots of other parts; doesnt take anything away from it though — still a solid unit, and doesnt really feel "cheap".
View attachment 296208
- The touch screen is responsive enough but there does feel like there's a bit of lag. Could also be a bit bigger, but the UI is designed well so it;'s not a nightmare to use.
- The automatic calibration (flow calibration, first layer scan, etc) before every print is nice and has so far led to great results, but it takes a lot of time; this adds about 5-7 mins before every print if those options are on -- doesn't seem to be necessary on every print, especially if you're just churning out parts.
- Cool plate is ass; it actually sticks really well, but you do need to use glue stick.
- I accidentally set it to a normal 60c hotbed temp and i fucked up the sticker because the print stuck too well and i had to scrape the shit out of it.
- glad I got the PEI plates (smooth and textured) -- also have a PEX plate on the way. Newer ones should just ship with the "High Temp" PEI plate like the P1P does.
- The chamber light is pretty crap; a lot have added LED strips between the AMS and top lid for more light inside.
- it's fast, but not thatmuch faster than the v400 for my usual prints
- that actually may be a lie -- the S1 Pro will print a case in 55 mins, v400 @ 40-45 mins, X1c will do it in ≈30 mins and a better end result
View attachment 296209
- The delivered profiles seem pretty damn good accuracy-wise; i usually have to dial in a tiny bit of horizontal comp for holes and contours in Cura on my other printers for those cases; i still ahve to dial some in here, but much less.
- Bambu Studio seems cool; multicolor seems to be easy to do/setup, and the layout is much more usable than Cura (which i'm used to, but not really "used to")
- The fucking phone app is called “Bambu Handy” lmao
- Cloud printing and remote viewing natively in the slicer is nice.
- Could be a security concern (?) — i have to VPN in to my home network to remotely monitor/control my other printers.
View attachment 296210
- I haven't played with it yet, but AMS is cool even for single-color prints — just having 4 spools loaded up and ready to go without having to switch anything out or having to unload/load the extruder is nice.
- Apparently You can print a Y-adapter and have both the AMS and external spool feed in depending on the settings; so technically you can have 5 ready to go (but can't use both AMS and a "regular" spool at the same time, i think?)
When i get more hours in with it, i'll try to add more
Seems like the foam is giving you more springiness than needed to dampen the vibrations and is adding to the overall shaking. Perhaps a sheet of sorbothane or like a Dynamat-type material on top of a paver?
But yeah-the reported overall noise from the X1C is what made me rule that out. Heard a lot of ppl having neighbors complain about the sounds.
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
Here's the model, the one I printed last night was already picked up by the garbage so I don't have it to show.
Astronaut Pen Pencil Holder Schreibwaren-Schreibtisch-Organizer für Home
Astronaut Pen Pencil Holder Schreibwaren-Schreibtisch-Organizer für Home
The moon cup is basically paper thin when I print
PrusaXL is supposed to be shipping right now but I swear I haven't seen a peep about it
I'm surprised it would ship prior to the beta of 2.6
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
oh it's a paid STL, check perimeter settingsHere's the model, the one I printed last night was already picked up by the garbage so I don't have it to show.
Astronaut Pen Pencil Holder Schreibwaren-Schreibtisch-Organizer für Home
Astronaut Pen Pencil Holder Schreibwaren-Schreibtisch-Organizer für Homecults3d.com
The moon cup is basically paper thin when I print
if you look at the sliced preview you can look at the cup like halfway through and see how thicc it is
MastaCow
I love cup.
Yeah. I don't know if stuffing all the internals with sound deadener is the way to go.
CPTMULLET
OT Supporter
Huh yeah that does make some funky noises.
Dynamatting it does make a lot of sense to help kill resonance though