I personally think it's worth warming, like 100c though, no need to go to printing tempsshould I heat the nozzle up to remove it with a wrench?
how else do you test if the hotend is workingAND DON'T TOUCH THE HOT NOZZLE WITH YOUR FINGERS.
oh to be clear a clog is generally above the hot part in the heat break, anything below that it should melt outholy shit it's suuuuper clogged. I think I'm just gonna order a new hot end. This thing is PACKED in the nozzle and the hot end.
Came here to post this. Its an all to common problem. Even .1mm gap will be enough for the material to eventually start backing up and melting/cooking in the bowden and making a mess.Well, I know why this happened at least. I didn't push the bowden tube back in far enough, so it was just dumping filament allllll in the block.
Elegoo, get the size you want and cant go wrong. Also make sure to get the water washable resin. Easy water cleanup, much less smell.what's the new hotness in resin printers? now that wash stations are common I wanna upgrade
in my experience that resin cracked a few months laterElegoo, get the size you want and cant go wrong. Also make sure to get the water washable resin. Easy water cleanup, much less smell.
Thats the #1 thing uncured resin will do. Was it a dark color?in my experience that resin cracked a few months later
post picturesWould it be a terrible idea to shoot a heat gun into the heatsink looking block?
those were failing tooUse the cool plate for pla. I put the textured plate behind the printer to never be used again.