STYLE 5'10" -5'11", ~180lbs, athletic build, what size suit jacket should I be wearing?

MikeTheVike1

OT Supporter
Aug 29, 2002
5,832
I have 2 suits and looking to get another. Never been quite happy about about the fit of my 42R jackets even after tailoring...they always seem a little too long and not slim enough on my upper body. I saw some reviews of suits online where guys who had my same specs were buying 38S-40R jackets and said they loved the way they fit...any help?
 

Smelly-Kitten

Dept. of Redundancy Department *Side Pipes
Sep 19, 2003
5,446
UCSD
You are a 38R or 40R from places that utilize a modern/european/slim/type 2 suit. You can go with an S, but it's not going to change the feel, only really be shorter and make you look chunkier/small torsoed if you are on the 5'11" side.

Slim is in, I'm 6'1" 184/athletic and am a perfect 37R or 38R from a place that has a slim line. They dont make a 37, tho so I even pull off a 36R on non-business, going out suits. 5 years ago, walk into any place and I'd be given 90's style 38R's and niceish 40R's like nobody's business. Wear a slim suit (as long as the shoulders fit well, if chest is tight [should be wearing with one button anyways] just leave it unbuttoned), you'll look like a millions fucks.
For a business setting, go more on the 40R side.
 
TS
TS
MikeTheVike1

MikeTheVike1

OT Supporter
Aug 29, 2002
5,832
You are a 38R or 40R from places that utilize a modern/european/slim/type 2 suit. You can go with an S, but it's not going to change the feel, only really be shorter and make you look chunkier/small torsoed if you are on the 5'11" side.

Slim is in, I'm 6'1" 184/athletic and am a perfect 37R or 38R from a place that has a slim line. They dont make a 37, tho so I even pull off a 36R on non-business, going out suits. 5 years ago, walk into any place and I'd be given 90's style 38R's and niceish 40R's like nobody's business. Wear a slim suit (as long as the shoulders fit well, if chest is tight [should be wearing with one button anyways] just leave it unbuttoned), you'll look like a millions fucks.
For a business setting, go more on the 40R side.


I ended up getting a 40R. Didn't try on a 38, but I think that would have been too small. I wanted to try on a 40S for comparison purposes but they didn't have any. I'm relatively happy, might have to have the sleeves shortened a tad to see more cuff.
 

Smelly-Kitten

Dept. of Redundancy Department *Side Pipes
Sep 19, 2003
5,446
UCSD
I ended up getting a 40R. Didn't try on a 38, but I think that would have been too small. I wanted to try on a 40S for comparison purposes but they didn't have any. I'm relatively happy, might have to have the sleeves shortened a tad to see more cuff.

It very well could be too small, but you should def try one on. As for the cuff, agreed the cuff needs to extend past the coat (tradtion because shirts cost less than coats and you'd rather have the former wear first), but check your shirts too. Are they all that way, when you bend your arm as if to check your watch does the cuff move and if so how much?
 

drake

OT Supporter
Jul 10, 2002
4,672
East Bay
bump.

Got another question from someone with a similar build to the TS. I've been looking for a new suit and can't find anything off the rack that comes close to fitting. My problem is I get a "dent" on the sleeve just below the shoulder pad of any jacket I've tried on like these:

2YqEy.png
or
8qMiP.png


But most suits that fit well would/should fit more like these:
umHZk.png
or
beump.png


I've tried on jackets from anything I could find at Nordstrom Rack, BR, Italian tailor, j.crew, Macy's, etc ranging from 38-42 and various cuts and they all do this to a varying degree. I think there was one at the tailor's that would have worked and he mentioned that it has smaller shoulder pads, but :dunno:

Any advice or particular brands to look our for from style people? I'm going to be in HK over xmas/NY, so should I just wait until I go there since I won't need anything before that time.
 

Max Stirner

Well-Known Member
Aug 20, 2008
6,747
Hyperborea
bump.

Got another question from someone with a similar build to the TS. I've been looking for a new suit and can't find anything off the rack that comes close to fitting. My problem is I get a "dent" on the sleeve just below the shoulder pad of any jacket I've tried on like these:

or

But most suits that fit well would/should fit more like these:
or

I've tried on jackets from anything I could find at Nordstrom Rack, BR, Italian tailor, j.crew, Macy's, etc ranging from 38-42 and various cuts and they all do this to a varying degree. I think there was one at the tailor's that would have worked and he mentioned that it has smaller shoulder pads, but :dunno:

Any advice or particular brands to look our for from style people? I'm going to be in HK over xmas/NY, so should I just wait until I go there since I won't need anything before that time.

Probably due to the suits you try on being a bit too narrow for your arms. If your biceps are wider than your shoulders, then this can happen. I'd suggest going for a bit less of a slim cut. If you can find it on sale at Nordstrom Rack, Hickey Freeman is very good value for money (full canvas construction and everything) with a more traditional fit that might work better.

Or, better still, get some suits made for you when you go to Hong Kong, then you can get a slim fitting suit that includes bigger armholes. It will probably take care of the shoulder dent problems.
 

drake

OT Supporter
Jul 10, 2002
4,672
East Bay
Probably due to the suits you try on being a bit too narrow for your arms. If your biceps are wider than your shoulders, then this can happen. I'd suggest going for a bit less of a slim cut. If you can find it on sale at Nordstrom Rack, Hickey Freeman is very good value for money (full canvas construction and everything) with a more traditional fit that might work better.

Or, better still, get some suits made for you when you go to Hong Kong, then you can get a slim fitting suit that includes bigger armholes. It will probably take care of the shoulder dent problems.

:bowdown: thanks, just the kind of advice I was hoping for. I'll be on the lookout for Hickey Freeman brand next time I get the urge to shop for suits. I'm pretty sure I've tried most of the different fits though and even the executive (fat man) cut suits would have this happen as well from what I recall. It'll be good to know when I speak with the suit salespeople to see if they have suggestions with stock on hand as well.

Yeah, I'm thinking HK would be the best since I'll be there for close to 3 weeks and have time for proper fittings :cool:
 

Smelly-Kitten

Dept. of Redundancy Department *Side Pipes
Sep 19, 2003
5,446
UCSD
A few points:
Is it because like mentioned you have large biceps and tris or is it your frame?

It's not due to a shoulder pad, there aren't shoulder pads - it's the design/cut of the shoulder. What you're looking at is a roped shoulder. A mild roped shoulder is more like the pinstripe pic you posted. Even less than that is what's called a bald or waterfall type shoulder where it falls off the shoulder instead of bunching up more.

If you have a narrow frame I'd suggest finding a bald or mild roped shoulder slim fit suit. It will be harder to find, but look fantastic.
If that doesn't work (and bigger arms compared to your shoulder or narrow shoulders/big chest is a problem), try a British cut/designed suit. Their shoulder line from the neck is a more slanted line and shouldn't bunch up at the end if you're wearing the right size - it's just the style and can be seen as good taste instead of a compromise. That's how my Aquascutum fits.
 

drake

OT Supporter
Jul 10, 2002
4,672
East Bay
A few points:
Is it because like mentioned you have large biceps and tris or is it your frame?

It's not due to a shoulder pad, there aren't shoulder pads - it's the design/cut of the shoulder. What you're looking at is a roped shoulder. A mild roped shoulder is more like the pinstripe pic you posted. Even less than that is what's called a bald or waterfall type shoulder where it falls off the shoulder instead of bunching up more.

If you have a narrow frame I'd suggest finding a bald or mild roped shoulder slim fit suit. It will be harder to find, but look fantastic.
If that doesn't work (and bigger arms compared to your shoulder or narrow shoulders/big chest is a problem), try a British cut/designed suit. Their shoulder line from the neck is a more slanted line and shouldn't bunch up at the end if you're wearing the right size - it's just the style and can be seen as good taste instead of a compromise. That's how my Aquascutum fits.

I don't think so, but maybe, I don't really have a reference? But, I have had a hard time finding just regular winter jackets since the upper arms tend to be too small in most brand's medium sizes and going up to a large ends up too big. Just now measuring my upper arms and I'm ~15" and my chest is just over 38" I really wouldn't consider either of those to be that big at 5'11" :dunno:

I think the tailor that I went to mentioned something about like a bald shoulder would work best for my shape. It's been a while since I was there and was browsing this subforum and saw the original post and thought I might get some advice where I'm not pressured to buy :o :cool: Only time I wear a suit is at holiday parties and the occasional wedding or interview. My old suit is a terrible cut and doesn't fit me anymore since I was lifting much more when I got it and I think it's a 42 :rofl: Aquascutum has some nice looking stuff.

I do usually have a hard time finding shirts that fit well though. Penguin brand "classic fit" button down shirts in size medium seem to fit the best recently. T-shirts will be medium or large depending on the brand.
 

Falconer

Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2006
65,534
I have that same shoulder dent issue.

160-165lbs, 5'9, 30-31" waist, athletic build.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

About Us

  • Please do not post anything that violates any Local, State, Federal or International Laws. Your privacy is protected. You have the right to be forgotten. Site funded by advertising, link monetization and member support.
OT v15.8.1 Copyright © 2000-2022 Offtopic.com
Served by fu.offtopic.com

Online statistics

Members online
372
Guests online
53
Total visitors
425

Forum statistics

Threads
369,442
Messages
16,883,812
Members
86,873
Latest member
vitalesan