Robert of Applied Colors contacted me and asked if I would like to test out a paint touch up kit his company is trying to put together. The kit includes numerous bottles of touch up paint and a paint match guide, dozens of paper mixing cups, thinners and thickeners, wax/grease removers, comprehensive instruction booklet, numerous touch up brushes of varying thickness, wetsanding block (but no wetsanding paper), etc. Mostly I have been trying it out like I would be using a bottle of the factory touch up paint. Sometimes I have had to mix together 2-3 of the same color scale to get a proper match. The plethora of brushes make it pretty easy to find the right one for the size scratch you are fixing-unlike factory touch up paint that has one brush size that always seems too thick. Here is a shot of the kit: I bought my Maxima a few weeks ago and it had a scratch on the passenger side rear pillar. I figured it would be a good test of a more extensive repair involving the touch up paint, wetsanding and buffing. Unfortunately, it was cloudy so the scratch doesn't look as bad as it actually is, plus the Lustre Grey color hides defects well. Anyway, the verticle part of the scratch is deep into the primer. I had to mix two of the silver/grey touch up paints together and it still wasn't quite dark enough when applied so I added a few drops of metallic black and it was very close. I overfilled the scratch a bit to compensate for the wetsanding to follow. I then wetsanded with 3M Imperial wet/dry (used it wet) 1500 grit followed by 2000 grit. As you can see, using a folded microfiber towel and Optimum Compound by hand wasn't removing the wetsanding marks-no suprise, just wanted to show that you likely can't remove wetsanding marks without a buffer. I then used my loaner Porter Cable 7428 rotary, a Soft Edge orange one step pad (amazingly smooth pad via rotary!) and Optimum Compound. Started off on 2, bumped it to 3 for several slow passes and it came out pretty much LSP ready. I followed with Poli-Seal using another orange Soft Edge pad and finished with the new version of Optimum Car Wax. It is not perfect, but before it was noticable from 10-15 feet. Now it is more like 2-3 feet, a pretty major improvement for not actually refinishing. There are a couple shallow areas I guess I didn't completely fill, so I'll probably go over them again when I have time. Overall, the kit seems to be pretty good. Obviously, it won't bring the paint to the level proper repair and repainting would but it does make a pretty big difference. Plus, you wouldn't be charging body shop money either and as long as the customer understands that they can get a very noticable improvement for maybe 10-15% of the cost a body shop would charge, they seem pretty happy.