TECH Component Speakers

YodaHart

New Member
Jul 7, 2006
600
I'm really interested in getting some component speakers for my new truck, but I'm a little confused on how much power I'll need for an amp. The speakers I'm looking at are the Kicker KS65.2. It says the speakers are 4ohms and require 150watts peak/75 watts RMS. Is this per speaker or for the pair? I'm looking to hook them up to my amp with gives 2 x 85 watts RMS @ 4ohms and 2 x 160 watts RMS @ 2ohms. I was planning on getting 4 components and wiring the pairs in series but running them on 2 seperate channels from the amp. Do you think my existing amp will work or do I need one with more power?
 

i need slicks

New Member
Jan 28, 2005
9,461
Home of the Phillies
The amp would be good for running just two speakers. What ohm are the speakers? Also if you try to run two speakers on one channel it will increase the resistance and lower the wattage output.
 

JRock10

Active Member
May 25, 2005
7,731
Nashville, TN FTW
your amp sounds like it will be fine for those speakers. is your amp 2 or 4 channels? you can't wire them in series then run them off seperate channels, btw.

oh, and when you wire speakers in series, it will increase resistance and lower wattage output.
if you wire them in parallel, then it does the opposite.
 
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YodaHart

New Member
Jul 7, 2006
600
The amp has 2 channels. Kicker states the speakers are 4 ohms. If you look at the manual (http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/2005/2005%20KS%20Components.pdf) it states:
Modern high performance system components have a lower DC Resistance than what used to be available. The Kicker KS-Series
System Components are rated at four ohms and work with any source unit or amplifier designed to operate at a four ohm load. If you
want to use two KS-Series System Components on each channel of your source unit or amplifier wire the system components in
series--at the connection between the crossover and source unit or amplifier, as shown below in Figure 6. This will improve the sound
quality, lower the total harmonic distortion and lessen the thermal load at the source unit or amplifier. This may prevent an amplifier
from shutting down, due to over-current protection circuitry.


JRock, maybe you misunderstood me. If you check page 10 of the manual, that is exactly how I want to wire them. I just wasn't sure if my amp had enough power.
 

i need slicks

New Member
Jan 28, 2005
9,461
Home of the Phillies
2 channels means LF or RF. Most cars also have LR and RR. Then usually tweeters tied in with the LF and RF. You are trying to tie the left and right side together with the same channel. right? I'd buy a 4 channel amp.
 
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YodaHart

New Member
Jul 7, 2006
600
i need slicks said:
2 channels means LF or RF. Most cars also have LR and RR. Then usually tweeters tied in with the LF and RF. You are trying to tie the left and right side together with the same channel. right? I'd buy a 4 channel amp.

No, I'm trying to tie the LF and LR together on one channel and the RF and RR together on the second channel. I think that is the only way to get the correct stereo sound.
 

i need slicks

New Member
Jan 28, 2005
9,461
Home of the Phillies
True I worded it wierd. I meant to say 'lefts' and 'rights' each on the same channel. Yes thats the stereo (2.1 sound) but don't some head units decode in 5.1? I know some cd's are encoded with that.
 

Create

:free at last:
Jan 4, 2006
8,028
YodaHart said:
No, I'm trying to tie the LF and LR together on one channel and the RF and RR together on the second channel. I think that is the only way to get the correct stereo sound.
I understand exactly what the manual says but it's simply not a good idea.

Each component set has a 4 Ohm load. Your amp can handle as low as a 2 Ohm load. Usually, when trying to run two 4 Ohm loads on a channel you would wire the speakers in parallel giving an effective load of 2 Ohm, leading to 80W/component set. A small amount of distortion is possible.

Your plan is to hook them up in series. This will give an 8 Ohm load, effectively halving your power output. In this case, the amp will push about 45W/channel, split between the speakers for an effective 22W/component set. While the signal will be cleaner than from a head unit you're not pushing much more power than your average pioneer head. Basically, this setup is for someone who wants to run alot of speakers through a very high power amp. There is also a serious risk of underpower. Being kicker brand, underpower is an even more serious concern. I highly advise against wiring in series with you amplifier. If you were to decide to spend more money, it's better spent on individual speaker channels than more power to run a series setup.

Your best solution is to buy another (identical if possible) 2ch amp, then run each component set through an individual amplifier channel.

Another truck solution is to skip the rear speakers. Run front components and dual 8" or a single 10" subwoofer. Two channels bridge for the sub, individual channels for the fronts, 4 total channels required.

Cliffs: Run them in parallel despite what the manual says or buy an amp for 4 total channels. Running in series with this amplifier will destroy your speakers.
 
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YodaHart

New Member
Jul 7, 2006
600
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to hook 2 of them up to the amp and use them for the rears. Then I'll hook up some normal speakers in the front doors and run them off the H/U since it puts out 4x50watts.
 
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YodaHart

New Member
Jul 7, 2006
600
i need slicks said:
I would the amp LF and RF. Ya know the speakers that are closer and you influence the imaging alot more?

Yeah, I was thinking that would be better, but I didn't really want to have to run wires to the front doors. I might end up doing that. I'd like to have the tweeters in the front doors closer to me anyways.
 

Create

:free at last:
Jan 4, 2006
8,028
YodaHart said:
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to hook 2 of them up to the amp and use them for the rears. Then I'll hook up some normal speakers in the front doors and run them off the H/U since it puts out 4x50watts.
Your head unit likely puts out 4x50 peak, not RMS. The RMS value is more likely to be 20-25W/channel, and a much dirtier signal. Running some signals through the amp and some through a head unit is half-assed. At least run the front speakers through the amp. The rear pair, run from the head unit, will be trash soon enough.

If you can't afford an individual channel for each speaker and a head unit then don't waste your money on a car audio system.
 

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