ART develop my own film?

Bloke

Banned
Jun 1, 2003
29,555
Lacrosse wi
so im going to give this a shot.

have a few questions i bought 2 tanks. i asked around and everyone said stainless reels, but said plastic is easier for a beginner. could not find stainless local so bought plastic.
one tank is made in the USA! any plastic in the usa seems very rare! Ansco brand it has a built in thermometer
the other one i bought is a nikon. paid $10 for both

i will buy chemicals when i have everything i need. i need a way to get the film out of the cans still, my camera sucks the leader in. am i supposed to leave the leader on when developing or cut it off
also do i need to pay attention to the PH of these chemicals especially when used? i have no PH tester or access to one.


i plan on doing E6 as well as black and white...
 
Last edited:

Jcolman

OT Supporter
Aug 19, 2002
48,070
dirty souf
Use a bottle cap opener to pop the end of the film cannister open. I'm pretty sure you can leave the leader on as you wind the film onto the reel but iirc I use to cut it off.

I never checked PH levels, just temp levels.
 

Valence

Just a dude, playing a dude, playing another dude.
OT Supporter
Use a bottle cap opener to pop the end of the film cannister open. I'm pretty sure you can leave the leader on as you wind the film onto the reel but iirc I use to cut it off.

I never checked PH levels, just temp levels.
they make ph strips you can get at any hobby store for the kiddos science and chemistry sets. Hobby Lobby has them. That's something (b&w film developing) that I've wanted to get back into for the longest time now but I can't justify the cost.
 

adamlewis88

New Member
Dec 2, 2007
5,365
San Francisco, CA
so im going to give this a shot.

have a few questions i bought 2 tanks. i asked around and everyone said stainless reels, but said plastic is easier for a beginner. could not find stainless local so bought plastic.
one tank is made in the USA! any plastic in the usa seems very rare! Ansco brand it has a built in thermometer
the other one i bought is a nikon. paid $10 for both

i will buy chemicals when i have everything i need. i need a way to get the film out of the cans still, my camera sucks the leader in. am i supposed to leave the leader on when developing or cut it off
also do i need to pay attention to the PH of these chemicals especially when used? i have no PH tester or access to one.


i plan on doing E6 as well as black and white...

Ive only hand processed B&W.

Its pretty easy though.
Like Colman said, use a can opener to pop off the top of the film canister and then pull the film out. You dont have to cut off the leader but its the best way to go. It wont be held by both sides of the grooves on those plastic (or metallic) reels and can end up touching the rest of your film while developing and get all nasty.

The plastic reels are the shizzle! Dont ever go the metal route. Plastic is a million times eaiser. You just shove one end in and then ratchet it all away until its all held inside there.

Lemme know how the E6 goes. You have to be sure to keep all the chemicals at a very specific temperature (100°F I think?).

I dont know how hard it is to C41 by yourself, but Id probably do that instead of E6 and then just xpro any slides I had for fun. If it was serious slide film, Id rather have a lab do it anyways.

[/2cents]
 

adamlewis88

New Member
Dec 2, 2007
5,365
San Francisco, CA
they make ph strips you can get at any hobby store for the kiddos science and chemistry sets. Hobby Lobby has them. That's something (b&w film developing) that I've wanted to get back into for the longest time now but I can't justify the cost.

Cost? Its cheap as hell to develop your own BW film. Developing prints from that film may be a little more pricey though.

I still have all my BW stuff at my fiance's house. Im sure the chemicals have all gone bad by now, but it doesnt cost much to buy more.
 

Tedrzz

New Member
Jul 6, 2005
1,569
Brooklyn, NY
I cut the leader off, except when I was shooting medium format. I'd leave it on because it acted as a guide when I slid it into the roll.
 

Valence

Just a dude, playing a dude, playing another dude.
OT Supporter
Cost? Its cheap as hell to develop your own BW film. Developing prints from that film may be a little more pricey though.

I still have all my BW stuff at my fiance's house. Im sure the chemicals have all gone bad by now, but it doesnt cost much to buy more.
the price tag on the negative scanner is what I don't like. I wouldn't do the full setup
 
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Bloke

Bloke

Banned
Jun 1, 2003
29,555
Lacrosse wi
Ive only hand processed B&W.

Its pretty easy though.
Like Colman said, use a can opener to pop off the top of the film canister and then pull the film out. You dont have to cut off the leader but its the best way to go. It wont be held by both sides of the grooves on those plastic (or metallic) reels and can end up touching the rest of your film while developing and get all nasty.

The plastic reels are the shizzle! Dont ever go the metal route. Plastic is a million times eaiser. You just shove one end in and then ratchet it all away until its all held inside there.

Lemme know how the E6 goes. You have to be sure to keep all the chemicals at a very specific temperature (100°F I think?).

I dont know how hard it is to C41 by yourself, but Id probably do that instead of E6 and then just xpro any slides I had for fun. If it was serious slide film, Id rather have a lab do it anyways.

[/2cents]

well yeah for serious shots its kodachrome, i looked at the directions for E6 it looks doable, i just need plenty of gratuated cyls. i have none right now.
 

Wheezer

OT Supporter
Jul 1, 2002
1,621
Houston
For some reason I thought you already developed your own. It's easy as hell to develop your own (even my wife can do it ) :mamoru:

Like everyone said, plastic reels are sooo much easier to load. And I just cut off (or tear if I forget the scissors)the lead and the tape.
 
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Bloke

Bloke

Banned
Jun 1, 2003
29,555
Lacrosse wi
For some reason I thought you already developed your own. It's easy as hell to develop your own (even my wife can do it ) :mamoru:

Like everyone said, plastic reels are sooo much easier to load. And I just cut off (or tear if I forget the scissors)the lead and the tape.

no i have just been in love with slide film, kodachrome velvia etc, that black and white seemed like a distraction.

let me put it this way of what i plan on doing

slide film 80%
color negitive 12%
black and white 8%
 

xconverge

OT Supporter
Apr 11, 2008
6,331
San Francisco, CA
My roommate and I have had a closet full of darkroom stuff for a year. We haven't done B+W since high school. What is the process that we should be using (ie chemicals and such) to develop tmax (unless there is a better home darkroom film) and make enlargements. There is to much info on the internet and I figure someone here can give me a short answer that answers all of my questions. I am familiar with the process just a bit rusty
 
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Bloke

Bloke

Banned
Jun 1, 2003
29,555
Lacrosse wi
My roommate and I have had a closet full of darkroom stuff for a year. We haven't done B+W since high school. What is the process that we should be using (ie chemicals and such) to develop tmax (unless there is a better home darkroom film) and make enlargements. There is to much info on the internet and I figure someone here can give me a short answer that answers all of my questions. I am familiar with the process just a bit rusty

just ask your store, thats what i did.
i guess go with tmax developer (liquid not powder) with tmax film.
i think ill use D76 becasue its shelf life
 
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Bloke

Bloke

Banned
Jun 1, 2003
29,555
Lacrosse wi
pppht plastic reels and tanks all the way. they should last close to forever.
stainless is a pain in the ass.

B&W is fun and easy. Color chemistry is...less so.

looks like C41 is easier than black and white becasue the develop time is shorter. just need to keep an eye on tempature
 
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Bloke

Bloke

Banned
Jun 1, 2003
29,555
Lacrosse wi
heres Pyrocat HD on Fomapan 200
i dont think ill try the pan films though
stunning!

2911568272_0a5b0b9890_b.jpg
 

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