CREW DIY build thread

jwhuffandpuff

OT Supporter
Dec 8, 2007
9,401
New Hampshire
what if you can't move the floor location?

edit- i just google it. turn the s trap into a p trap, i see it now. of course this means you move the drain entry in the floor as you stated.

i bet there are installs where you don't have the space to relocate the pip going down i guess you are stuck in that situation.
What the fuck are you two on about?
 

whatever

OT Supporter
Feb 18, 2004
213,959
It seems to be working, other than the seal on the underside of the sink is leaking. So that's not making me happy. Not sure how it could leak, the conical seal that fits into the basin drain from the underside is rubber. So it should seal minor casting issues. When i close the drain and fill the basin with water it doesn't leak, but when i open up the stop, water leaks. So the basin seal is good and the lower seal isn't. :mad:

might just need a bit of tightening.
 
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jwhuffandpuff

OT Supporter
Dec 8, 2007
9,401
New Hampshire
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TomDlgns

OT Supporter
Oct 24, 2004
77,526
if you dont fill the sink up all the way then dump it out constantly i doubt you'll have issues. just running to wash hands/brush teeth it'll be fine.

a nearby toilet can also siphon out the water in an s trap, too.
 

8legs

8eyes
OT Supporter
Mar 16, 2008
29,322
Webbywebz
Always use caulk at the corners and joints. Everything moves. Grout is brittle. Caulk is flexible.
Could just do a little re-grout. It's all in the pan so not a leak prob, just a mold thing. Need grout to stop retaining water. Caulk will foster mold at the edges and in all likelihood look shitty with the tumbled tiles.
 

Scoob_13

Hello Nice FBI Lady
Oct 5, 2001
80,914
Jew Space Laser Control Center
ah fuck I mixed you up with Scoob :o
I did. Managed to break the vinyl side off a vinyl and rubber mallet, so switched to the 60 year old framing hammer and pounded the corner back into shape.

Need to touch up the paint but I got all 4 screws of the bracket to work so the 2 brackets holding the top cabinet to the bottom ( :hsugh: ) are on.

HD gave me a 10% refund :o Which is great since now I need to go buy a new soft faced mallet. Plus a shitload of drawer dividers and socket storage.


Also the downside of the chest I bought is I got a ton of thin drawers - vs less but deeper drawers. Was half tempted to just return it and swap it out but I think it'll be okay. Trying to decide if I'm going to order a shitload of Kaizen foam or go buy floor mats from HF :rofl:
 

MiseryIndex

open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
Nov 9, 2000
186,181
heaven's fence.
i want to build a long sofa table of sorts to go behind the couch, between the couch and window sill, to put plants. the window sill isn't wide enough for most pots to be stable on.

i don't really care how pretty it is since its basically entirely behind the table other than maybe the top. the window is 100" wide but i was thinking of using an 8' piece to make it easier. 'appearance grade pressure-treated board' seems cheap & nice enough. considerably cheaper than the home depot project board or mdf pieces.

my idea was to take a 1" x 6" x 8' piece and make it the top, over a frame made with maybe 2x3's or something? thoughts? my ideal is 8' wide and 3' high with that 6" deep top.
 

jwhuffandpuff

OT Supporter
Dec 8, 2007
9,401
New Hampshire
i want to build a long sofa table of sorts to go behind the couch, between the couch and window sill, to put plants. the window sill isn't wide enough for most pots to be stable on.

i don't really care how pretty it is since its basically entirely behind the table other than maybe the top. the window is 100" wide but i was thinking of using an 8' piece to make it easier. 'appearance grade pressure-treated board' seems cheap & nice enough. considerably cheaper than the home depot project board or mdf pieces.

my idea was to take a 1" x 6" x 8' piece and make it the top, over a frame made with maybe 2x3's or something? thoughts? my ideal is 8' wide and 3' high with that 6" deep top.
I really like that idea, do you have base board heating?
 

CPTMULLER

Well-Known Member
Jun 30, 2008
72,470
Portland, OR
i want to build a long sofa table of sorts to go behind the couch, between the couch and window sill, to put plants. the window sill isn't wide enough for most pots to be stable on.

i don't really care how pretty it is since its basically entirely behind the table other than maybe the top. the window is 100" wide but i was thinking of using an 8' piece to make it easier. 'appearance grade pressure-treated board' seems cheap & nice enough. considerably cheaper than the home depot project board or mdf pieces.

my idea was to take a 1" x 6" x 8' piece and make it the top, over a frame made with maybe 2x3's or something? thoughts? my ideal is 8' wide and 3' high with that 6" deep top.
what tools do you have?
 

MiseryIndex

open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
Nov 9, 2000
186,181
heaven's fence.
what tools do you have?

most relevant to this i have a circular saw and jigsaw. various handsaws. bunch of wood glue & liquid nails in a calking tube.

i've built a fair amount of things before but usually try to get the most appropriate sizes to minimize cuts.
 

MiseryIndex

open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
Nov 9, 2000
186,181
heaven's fence.
Could upholster it to hide it?

i just figure its mostly behind the couch and not visible since its been the back of the couch & wall, so i only really care about what the very top looks like. and that its stable enough/water resistant enough for plants. it doesn't have to be pretty. its going to get plant pot calcium deposits and dirt on it lol.
i basically want to use it to extend the window sill to make it wide enough for bigger plants. so you won't really be able to see it.


d61bacdbb2694d071ea8c4544b1da016.jpg
 

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