jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
whatever
OT Supporter
- Feb 18, 2004
- 213,959
It seems to be working, other than the seal on the underside of the sink is leaking. So that's not making me happy. Not sure how it could leak, the conical seal that fits into the basin drain from the underside is rubber. So it should seal minor casting issues. When i close the drain and fill the basin with water it doesn't leak, but when i open up the stop, water leaks. So the basin seal is good and the lower seal isn't.
might just need a bit of tightening.
jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
Imma bout to use the tub of plumbers putty that i had to buy for the top drain and slather it all up in those leaky holes
whatever
OT Supporter
- Feb 18, 2004
- 213,959
this is what you'd need to do to remove the S trap:
P is what ya want. the S trap may siphon out the trap water causing sewer gas to leak into the room.
whatever
OT Supporter
- Feb 18, 2004
- 213,959
MiseryIndex
open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
someone on the local home repair fb group was selling a half used gallon of flexseal paint
like
bruh
jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
The glue is already set and I'm pissing with the cock i got.
But thank you for the explanation. I just reused what was there, and never had any smell issues
jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
whatever
OT Supporter
- Feb 18, 2004
- 213,959
if you dont fill the sink up all the way then dump it out constantly i doubt you'll have issues. just running to wash hands/brush teeth it'll be fine.
TomDlgns
OT Supporter
- Oct 24, 2004
- 77,526
s traps can cause the water in the trap to be sucked out which will allow gases to flow into your bathroom/house.
changing it to a p trap is better.
TomDlgns
OT Supporter
- Oct 24, 2004
- 77,526
whatever
OT Supporter
- Feb 18, 2004
- 213,959
not with a studor vent right there. but if it wasnt yes correct.
TomDlgns
OT Supporter
- Oct 24, 2004
- 77,526
good call, but i also meant in general where s traps are normally found.
jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
These are plumbed pretty far apart and there is also a vent on the drain so i feel like the effect would be minimal...
Could just do a little re-grout. It's all in the pan so not a leak prob, just a mold thing. Need grout to stop retaining water. Caulk will foster mold at the edges and in all likelihood look shitty with the tumbled tiles.
Scoob_13
Hello Nice FBI Lady
I did. Managed to break the vinyl side off a vinyl and rubber mallet, so switched to the 60 year old framing hammer and pounded the corner back into shape.ah fuck I mixed you up with Scoob
Need to touch up the paint but I got all 4 screws of the bracket to work so the 2 brackets holding the top cabinet to the bottom (
) are on.HD gave me a 10% refund
Which is great since now I need to go buy a new soft faced mallet. Plus a shitload of drawer dividers and socket storage.Also the downside of the chest I bought is I got a ton of thin drawers - vs less but deeper drawers. Was half tempted to just return it and swap it out but I think it'll be okay. Trying to decide if I'm going to order a shitload of Kaizen foam or go buy floor mats from HF
Scoob_13
Hello Nice FBI Lady
MiseryIndex
open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
i want to build a long sofa table of sorts to go behind the couch, between the couch and window sill, to put plants. the window sill isn't wide enough for most pots to be stable on.
i don't really care how pretty it is since its basically entirely behind the table other than maybe the top. the window is 100" wide but i was thinking of using an 8' piece to make it easier. 'appearance grade pressure-treated board' seems cheap & nice enough. considerably cheaper than the home depot project board or mdf pieces.
my idea was to take a 1" x 6" x 8' piece and make it the top, over a frame made with maybe 2x3's or something? thoughts? my ideal is 8' wide and 3' high with that 6" deep top.
i don't really care how pretty it is since its basically entirely behind the table other than maybe the top. the window is 100" wide but i was thinking of using an 8' piece to make it easier. 'appearance grade pressure-treated board' seems cheap & nice enough. considerably cheaper than the home depot project board or mdf pieces.
my idea was to take a 1" x 6" x 8' piece and make it the top, over a frame made with maybe 2x3's or something? thoughts? my ideal is 8' wide and 3' high with that 6" deep top.
jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
CPTMULLER
Well-Known Member
MiseryIndex
open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
jwhuffandpuff
OT Supporter
MiseryIndex
open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
most relevant to this i have a circular saw and jigsaw. various handsaws. bunch of wood glue & liquid nails in a calking tube.
i've built a fair amount of things before but usually try to get the most appropriate sizes to minimize cuts.
MiseryIndex
open your eyes child, your sea is changing.
i just figure its mostly behind the couch and not visible since its been the back of the couch & wall, so i only really care about what the very top looks like. and that its stable enough/water resistant enough for plants. it doesn't have to be pretty. its going to get plant pot calcium deposits and dirt on it lol.
i basically want to use it to extend the window sill to make it wide enough for bigger plants. so you won't really be able to see it.
