CREW DIY build thread

whatever

OT Supporter
Feb 18, 2004
213,959
how do you eliminate the S trap in that scenario? i could see if the pipe goes into the wall, but this drops straight down, curious how it would be done.
Need 3x diameter horizontal iirc. Send it sideways then back Or move drain entry point in the floor
 
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Colleen

Well-Known Member
Apr 3, 2002
104,912
🇨🇦
Basically all done but the cleanup.

j5icSlz_d.webp
Damn! I was going to do our laundry room in tile like that, but maybe thats a cellar tile 😻
 

TomDlgns

OT Supporter
Oct 24, 2004
77,526
Need 3x diameter horizontal iirc. Send it sideways then back Or move drain entry point in the floor

what if you can't move the floor location?

edit- i just google it. turn the s trap into a p trap, i see it now. of course this means you move the drain entry in the floor as you stated.

i bet there are installs where you don't have the space to relocate the pip going down i guess you are stuck in that situation.
 
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s34s0ns

OT Supporter
Jan 5, 2005
8,046
Oakland, Ca
This bathroom vanity has been a freaking project.

I never really did anything with the bathroom when i moved in, it was shitty, the quality of the work and installation of everything sucks, location, materials. Fiancee finally moved in and motivated me to do something about it. She picked out the white and green combo, i did the install and painting. I'm a novice at best but i do better work than what was previously done.


Plumbing was fucked, i had to rerun the hot water around the box because it was previously run between the dry wall and the box. Then i added quarter turn valves.
View attachment 186047

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The outlet and switch in the photo were moved and a vanity light switch installed
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Cut out some of the drywall to fit some boards to mount the vanity to.
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Some paint
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Vanity light installed
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Mirror installed
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Vanity installed
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Not without apprentice marks
View attachment 186058
:hmm:
 

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8legs

8eyes
OT Supporter
Mar 16, 2008
29,324
Webbywebz
I don't know much about tile & grout sealant, but I re-sealed my shower a couple of years ago. Now I'm seeing a lot of separation and cracking at the bottom joints that's getting funky so it needs more work. Is there a thicker type of sealant without having to caulk? I've got plenty of sealant, but it is thin/viscous. Seems like thicker sealant would bridge cracks better so mold can't find a home. My tiles are 3" stone/stone look so caulk would look like shit, and porous surface would retain funk at the edges anyway.
 
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michael

michael

Florida Man, Esq.
Dec 21, 2001
112,586
The ether
I don't know much about tile & grout sealant, but I re-sealed my shower a couple of years ago. Now I'm seeing a lot of separation and cracking at the bottom joints that's getting funky so it needs more work. Is there a thicker type of sealant without having to caulk? I've got plenty of sealant, but it is thin/viscous. Seems like thicker sealant would bridge cracks better so mold can't find a home. My tiles are 3" stone/stone look so caulk would look like shit, and porous surface would retain funk at the edges anyway.
Always use caulk at the corners and joints. Everything moves. Grout is brittle. Caulk is flexible.
 
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jwhuffandpuff

OT Supporter
Dec 8, 2007
9,401
New Hampshire
just use a bucket
It seems to be working, other than the seal on the underside of the sink is leaking. So that's not making me happy. Not sure how it could leak, the conical seal that fits into the basin drain from the underside is rubber. So it should seal minor casting issues. When i close the drain and fill the basin with water it doesn't leak, but when i open up the stop, water leaks. So the basin seal is good and the lower seal isn't. :mad:
 

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