Discussion in 'OT Driven' started by familyguy101, Feb 7, 2007.
nice rig. says your planning on stepping up to 38 TSL's? Make sure you carry plenty of spare shafts, those 38's will snap those D44 shafts pretty easy, especially if your running a locker up front.
yea, 38's are too big for a D44, imho. 35 are tops for those axels if you're gonna play hard.
37's will be ok if you've got a light foot, especially on an s-series.
key words being "light foot". You can always push the envelope... But if he want's reliability, then I'd swap the axel.
reliability is simply a product being robust enough to exceed it's requirements by a comfortable margin.
Move a "reliable" product into a more demanding circumstance and it may fail. Likewise, if you take an "unreliable" product and reduce it's demand then it may become reliable.
orrr.... you could always pop some chromoly shafts in that D44 and worry about being light footed.
are you fucking retarded?
1)stop posting in any threads related to offhighway driving
2) drink bleach
holy wheel gap
obviously a mall crawler .... too damn tall for anything other than curbs
knock off 6" of that lift, dovetail the front and rear, widen both axles, toss in some cromos and CTM / Longs, and wheel the piss out of it till you get the rockwell fever
go read up on the d44... If you're going to swap an axel, dont' even bother with it. It's not much better than a d30 and for the cost, might as well do a d60.
hahahhaah .... i blew 30 shafts and ujoints like pencils with 32s on it.... swaped in a 44 f/r locked with Aussies, and 35s with a HEAVY right foot and i have yet to pop anything .... multiple guys in the club are running 37s on 44s (locked) with no problems at all
not to mention the fact that the D30 is a 1/4 ton and the D44 is 1/2 - 3/4 depending on the shaft / joint combo
blow some cock and stop posting.
yea that's why s10 sas swaps are having problems with d44's running higher than 35's... And that's why STOCK nissan titans (HALF ton truck) is shitting differentials left and right until they installed a band-aid finned aluminum diff cover.
If you're gonna swap an axel in, why waste the effort on a basic D44?
Now if you're talking about some custom-built D44 then that's different... But a standard D44 is not worth the time and if I have big dreams I'm not gonna half-ass the axle.
i ran a standard 44 for 6 months of hard wheelin on 35s locked and never blew anything .... ran stock everything until i could afford some alloy shafts , and longs joints .... took the old shafts out and they looked like when i got them .... no twist in the splines, ring and pinion were in spec, bearings were in spec ... perfect.
of course driving as hard as i do isnt driving stupid .... i dont stuff a front tire in an undercut at full lock in double low and see what breaks first .... but i have had 30+" of air under all tires and came down on them at full throttle and had nothing but dust
it's not that d44's are crappy, but i've already gone through a hub assembly(wheel bearings got fucked, the actual hub got chewed up too), lockout hub (blew up inside the hub), drivers side u-joint, drivers side inner shaft (snapped where it tappers down).....on 35's. I must admit I had a heavy foot at times, but i expected much more out of a dana 44. This is a light truck, 4.3 v6 doesn't have that much grunt, and this is a 1/2 ton axle, and I am disappointed. I just finished replacing some parts and i'm goin wheelin saturday, so i'll try and report how the day went, this time with a ligh foot the whole day. The 9" is holdin it's own, not a single issue so far and it's only a 31 spline, non nodular case.
I go wheelin with a guy who has a dana 30 front with 35" mud boggers and he doesn't have any problems. The keys are a light foot and never punch it while your tires are turned.
Plans are in the near future for a 77-79 HP Ford dana 60 front/14bolt FF rear. I most likely won't step it up to 38's with my current combo, but if I find a good deal on some tires I might.
I get chromoly shafts with CTM's and truss the housings. Pretty beefy plus you get ground clearance.
This is a hard decision, please tell me what you think. thanks
if you want to run 38s and you drive so stupidly that you blow up a 44 on 35s .... then go with the 60/14FF combo
im stepping up to 39s on my 44
EDIT: please tell me the lcokout you blew up was a Warn Crapium
you can't compare a D44 on a jeep(assuming you're talking CJ/YJ/TJ) with a D44 on a 1st gen s-series. There's a big weight difference. more weight=more stress.
what is the GVW on a S10?
my TJ is 4200 ... i cant imagine a S10 being much more than that
hahahaha, that is a good point. The ft/lb torque required to snap a 44 outer is around 3500. the Chromoly version of that outer is about 4500. A stock 60 outer is 8500, and a chromoly version is 10500. So the 60 far outweighs a 44 for strength. But then again, if i want to run a 60, my ground clearance will go down, and sittin on 38's with a 60 is almost like a 44 on 35's. I want to sit right in that margin of strength so I can run 38's on a 44. Knowing myself I'll probably end up getting the chromoly shafts and CTM's first and seeing how they hold.
The lockouts I blew up were the stock 78 ford lockout that came with the axles when i bought them. I replaced them with warn premiums and they are holdin up great. I also have a spare set of superwinch lockout just in case.
By the way. Saturday went great. I only gased it when the wheels were straight, not a single issue. Got some more body damage, but no drivetrain problems. I will upload pictures of the truck wheelin soon.
yeah, I made it out both times.
700 lbs aint shit. i run that when the jeep is loaded for the weekend with tools, parts, fluids, gas, camping gear and a passenger.
a chromo 60 shaft is not that strong ...
and if you shave the 60 housing, it has comparable GC to the D44 .... give it an hour with a grinder ... very little to ask .... not to mention the peace of mind of knowing you arent as likely to have to change out a stub or an inner in drifting snow, with 30 mph winds, and temps in the single digits
yes it is. By the way, I was only throwing out those numbers to show how much of an increase in strength a 60 has.
Nice truck the way it sits now, but be prepared to break shit with 38s. You'll probably eat that shafts in that 28 spl 9". My friend Dave runs the same axles in his 2 door Explorer on 35s and he's broken shafts in both axles quite easily (he also drives like a an old woman) in the same spot as you're 4th picture none the less. What a mess I had to go and drag his truck out. You can throw all the fancy bling alloy shaft ctm u-joint turd polish at that 44 that you want, but you still have the weak pinion shaft, small pinion gear, weak ball joints and weak spindles.
If the ground clearance difference between a 44 with 35s and a 60 with 38s is stopping you, then you need to get the little girl out of you're right foot.
I soooo want to go to Paragon and blast up all the trails with 14" of fresh snow.
luckily the rear is a 31 spline