Is this a troll thread?
Nobody else is helping...It absolutely has to be ... is douche giving advice on oily intake bolts on a SBC.![]()
Nobody else is helping...
Nobody else is helping...
Are you saying there's supposed to be oil all over the intake manifold? If so, it's the first I've ever heard of such a design.Neither are you since you don't know shit about SBCs.
Okay.Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. There is no valley cover on a Gen1 SBC like on the LS series engines separating the lifter valley from the bottom of the intake. There are bolt holes that go right into the oil galley on old school SBC designs they WILL seep oil if they are not sealed or if the PCV system is not up to par.
Looks like I already addressed the possibility that the bolts go all the way through the outer wall of the crankcase. Meanwhile, you just contradicted yourself, because you just said the bolts are supposed to be sealed, which means they're not supposed to leak, but you implied by quoting my post that the bolts are supposed to leak -- pick one, it can't be both.The first thing I'd do is take the manifold off again and check the bolt holes to see if there's any damage inside them, and whether they actually go through into the inside of the block. If the bolt holes are blind (i.e. they don't go all the way through the metal), then spray them out with throttle cleaner to remove the remaining oil and then figure out where the oil is really coming from. (Valve cover gaskets sound pretty likely in this case.) If the bolt holes do go all the way through the metal, then there must be some kind of sealant or washer you're supposed to use to keep oil from seeping past the bolt threads.
I realize it's a stupid mistake, and I'm not making any apologies for him, but I was actually trying to be helpful instead of (as someone else admitted) not taking him seriously -- and that's what makes me better than you.Well, you definitely shouldn't be using wood bolts, they have the wrong kind of threads; if you can't get OEM bolts, at least use machine bolts designed for metal-to-metal contact. Also, if you can't get the bolts in without a wrench, the thread size is wrong. You should be able to hand-tighten them all the way until they bottom-out, and then use a wrench to torque them.
...an elementary-grade SBC question -- which nobody else answered. I at least gave him a way to think about the problem so he could figure out what was wrong for himself, and the steps I wrote down do produce the right solution: take out the wood screws, clean the bolt holes and look for damage, and install new machine bolts with sealant on the threads. Done.
What does that tell you about this forum, that a guy asks a simple question that takes 5 seconds for someone with experience to answer, and yet someone who knows nothing about that engine has to help the guy figure it out because nobody else could spare those 5 seconds to stop circle-jerking and just fucking answer the guy's question?
You've got your work cut out for you. You're gonna get tired of slappin' Dipshit.You better believe if I saw this thread earlier I would have pimp slapped the stupid out of your mouth and helped the guy.
I wasn't blaming you specifically; the drama could've been completely skipped, though, if anyone had just posted a reply like "the bolt holes go all the way through into the crankcase, so the bolts will leak oil if they're not sealed properly. Take them out and put some Loctite on them."You better believe if I saw this thread earlier I would have pimp slapped the stupid out of your mouth and helped the guy.
...reply like "the bolt holes go all the way through into the crankcase, so the bolts will leak oil if they're not sealed properly. Take them out and put some Loctite on them."
THEY DONT GO ALL THE WAY INTO THE CRANKCASE ARE YOU FUCKING KIDDING ME
Just read that part, huh?
Shoulda bought a SBF