Discussion in 'OT Technology' started by thisgsx, Mar 3, 2006.
Piece me a system for under $1000. You guys can exclude the sub as I already have one.
Hummmm how about some Vifa xt19 tweets, Seas excel or lotus midrange and Dayton RS 8" would work for midbass too. Some MB quart amps and you're good to go.
damn that is one sexy system, if I do say so myself.
I also need the head unit. Link to said items? 8" mid wouldnt work, because I dont know how to fiberglass and the doors arent big enough. Im assuming what you said is active. I'd like to stick to passive. Much easier for me to tune. Most important for me is a nice HU and nice comp set. Ebay is fine.
Right now, what I have in mind is:
Diamond Audio D6400.2
All necessary wiring, fuses, etc..
Second Skin Damplifier deadener
All will be purchased used or new on ebay. With the exception of the sound deadener.
second skin is pretty over priced, unless ur doing competition or show etc dont bother with it
Not doing show or anything. Just deadening my doors. What else would you recommend?
get a seas lotus comp set then
raamat or peal n seal
Tell me more about running active? It's something I might possibly look into. Considering I am going to shell out around $500 for comps, I might go active for a change. How hard is it to tune?
yea thats what im going to get
Well the system is almost complete. Here's what I have so far.
12" IDMAX d2 v.3 in a 1.2cu.ft. sealed enclosure
Looking/waiting for deals on a set of Image Dynamics cs1.6 hopefully on ebay soon.
It's going to be a little over a grand when its all said and done I think.
Active is the way to go and is MUCH easier to tune. I'm not sure why you think passive would be easier to tune as the only way to change XO points is by changing the XO itself, not to mention you're very limited in tweeter attenuation. With a fully active system you have a huge amount of movement between XO points, slopes, attenuation, etc. In addition you drive your components more effectively due to the fact you aren't having losses from passive components in the signal path. Plus, you're isolating your tweeter and woofer so if you start to distort your woofer you probably won't blow your tweeter (which is common in passive setups). Finally, with the tuning and isolation you can drive your system to higher levels and customize power output to every driver. Go active and I don't think you'll go back.
Yeah, I did really wanted to go active but because of budget, I cant see myself spending another 3-400 on an external crossover and things like that.
You don't need one, your Eclipse deck has it all built-in.
Yes, I know, but I thought the cd8455 was the only deck capable for running an active setup as where the 8445 couldnt. Am I wrong?
You're absolutely right, sorry. Did you already buy the deck?
No. Not yet, but I dont really want to spend extra for the 8455. As I am probably going to drop $500 on a new set of the cs1.6 if I dont find any deals on ebay soon.
You could always go for an older Eclipse model. I LOVE my CD8053.
that stuff is not impressive
Yes, that was my first choice, but decided to go with the 8445 instead. Well, Im getting all my stuff installed this weekend if the weather's good. I'll be running my setup without the comps right now, but will be using an old set of Blaupunkt 6.5" coaxials I have sitting in my closet for the time being.
are you kidding me? did you sue it right before? I love the stuff
its better than other stuff but there are better alternatives to b-quiet depending on your budget